![]() Responses should relate to the original question. Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum.Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate. WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site.View higher quality, full size image (2548 X 1911)įORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards ( return to top) Or deal with the potential issues of having a non-stardard thickness door/drawer front. I'm not a huge fan of machined mdf doors, but this would be a good way to not have to charge an arm and a leg for fronts. If it were all paint, and I cleared it with the customer, I'd shallow up the frame to panel offset, then cut them all on the cnc. That's a whole kitchen also in rift white oak. I think we're going to do that in a similar fashion. We've got another job coming up, same theory, but the frame will be 1-1/2" wide. ![]() That was just a few cabinets in a kitchen. Knocked the back flat with the lipping planer, then pitched them all through the widebelt face up to just make that all happy. No nails, just clamp everything together. Basically used the same joinery on the doors we made. We cut a rabbet into the front edge of all of our shelves, then the facing has a groove in it to slip over the tongue that the rabbet creates. That job, the frame was 3/4" wide, and 1" thick. Doing a test piece first to find the right fence placement/groove width may be beneficial.I made the panels from 3/4" mdf, then wrapped them in solid. Once you’ve run all 4 boards through, continue to adjust the fence ever so slightly and run the boards through until the groove fits snug around the plywood panel. By running the board through, flipping it end to end, and running it through again, you’re automatically centering the groove within the board. This is a cool trick I learned from Training Hands Academy and his video demonstrates it well. Flip it front to back, and run it through again. Run all 4 boards through the table saw.Īdjust the fence ever so slightly away from the blade to create a wider channel and run a board through. ![]() Set your table saw blade at 3/8” high, place your board on end against the fence, and adjust the fence so the blade is centered on the board. For the center panel, we used 1/4” plywood so we cut a 1/4” groove. Next you need to create a groove for the center panel to sit in. You should now have 2 stiles and 2 rails. This total is the length at which you need to cut 2 boards that will be the rails. If your cabinet doors overlay instead of inset, cut your boards at the exact height you want your doors to be.įor the rails, there’s a little more math involved since they sit between the stiles. This is the length you should cut 2 boards for your stiles. We chose to use 1 x 2 1/2” wide pine boards which is within the standard range for shaker door borders.įirst determine the length of both the stiles and rails -įor inset cabinetry like mine, measure the opening height of your cabinet frame and subtract 1/4” (which accounts for an 1/8” gap on the top and bottom.). The rails (horizontal boards) fit between the stiles. The stiles (vertical boards) run the full length of the door.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |